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[Grace] resin-like clay

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Any baked clay can be sanded and buffed to make it shiny. This process can’t be used on surface treatments because it will sand them off. This process leaves a warm, burnished, pleasing feel to the clay’s surface that is a sensory delight. You can buffy a texture to create a warm, burnished appearance. Since there are no coatings or products on the clay’s surface, you can rebake it. Only you can decide what finish will provide the perfect look for your creations. Thankfully there are many options available to glaze air dry clay. Application Method Common brands of UV resin are Lisa Pavelka’s Magic Glos and this really fast-curing resin from China (their branding needs some work, but we all recognize that label design). Many people also love to use UltraDome resin, but I’ve not tried it. This UV resin from China sets up extremely fast and is very hard. It also smells really bad. But it is a very good doming resin. Epoxy Resin

Because UV resins cure before they can run off your piece, they can be used on curved surfaces. Just brush them on. Wait just a minute for the brush strokes to settle, then cure under a light. You can do this with any UV resin, but Teresa Pandora Salgado sells her DeepShine Resin. If you’re new to UV resin, this is a great way to get started. Polyester Resin Let the piece sit for a few minutes so the resin can self-level, and the bubbles can rise to the surface. Whether you can glaze air-dry clay depends on how you think of glazing. If you mean, can you apply a sealant or coating to improve its durability and alter its appearance, then yes you can. If you are thinking of glazing air-dry clay as you would ceramics or pottery then no you can’t. Air-dry clay is mainly made of cornstarch, resins, glues, and other additives. Most of these are flammable and will literally burn up if fired like ceramics. Do you need to seal clay? Acrylic paint will seal air dry clay but only to a certain extent. Most acrylic paint is water-resistant but will not make your air-dry clay pots waterproof. Unlike polymer clay, air dry clay is water-soluble. To be made waterproof it has to be completely coated with a waterproof coating like epoxy or polyurethane. Most Acrylic paints, including outdoor acrylics, are water-resistant not waterproof. Will Air-Dry Clay dissolve in water? As a general rule, sealing air dry clay isn’t an expensive proposition but prices do vary from one product to another. As you might expect, price follows the performance, and the more you are able to spend the better protected your air-dry clay projects will be.

Resources, guides & advice from the jewellery making experts

Measure the two parts into a marked medicine cup. Don’t dump out the first part before adding part two. Just add it to the top, using the correct lines on the cup. (eg. pour part A to the 10ml marking, then add part B to reach the 20ml mark) Try to use measuring cups that don’t have little tabs around the inside bottom. That makes it hard to scrape out the resin. If you are baking several air-dry projects, be sure to space them so air can circulate evenly around them. Kato Liquid Polyclay, Sculpey Liquid Clear, and Fimo Liquid will all cure clear and glossy when they’re fully cured. They do, however, need to be cured quite hot to create this effect. You just apply the liquid clay to the surface of the clay and then bake it in a hot oven, about 300F/148C. In most cases, though, a heat gun is required for the best clarity. It’s a process with a steep learning curve ( here’s a paid tutorial from Debbie Crothers), and it can be quite difficult to avoid getting bubbles and blisters, especially if an item is large.

Liquid clay is just that, a liquid version of polymer clay, and it must be heated to cure. Most brands of liquid clay cure somewhat cloudy. There are a few brands of liquid clay that cure crystal clear and glossy and can therefore make an excellent alternative to resin. You can find varnish in different levels of finish from matte to glossy, so read the label and choose the one that will give you the finish you’re looking for. Because waxes apply as a microscopically thin layerto polymer clay, they will do nothing to protect mica powder, glitter, paint, or metal leaf from wear or abrasion and can even remove them. You will not get a glossy shine with a wax. Instead, you’ll get a burnished sheen, but only when used on an already smooth surface.Wax applied to a textured surface will be white and unattractive. Resin is a wonderful material that does what it does very well. There is no substitute that matches it exactly. But by understanding which features you’re seeking, such as gloss or protection, you can make a better decision about which resin alternatives you want to use for your polymer clay work. Personally, I use all of these finishes (including resin) for different projects because they have such different features, results, and appearances. Neither epoxy nor UV resin is acutely toxic (technically speaking). It will not poison you. However, because the material in BOTH UV and Epoxy resin is highly allergenic, you should absolutely minimize your exposure. Some people become intensely hypersensitized and have severe allergic reactions. Therefore, organic vapor respirators are recommended but not required. You should also prevent skin exposure (use gloves!) and use proper ventilation when mixing and pouring resin. Once you are sensitized to this material, you will always have an intense allergic reaction to it. And the more exposure you have, the more likely your body will become hypersensitized to it.There are many ways to seal air-dry clay, including coating it with common white glue. The best method to seal it is with one or more coats of polyurethane varnish or an acrylic sealer. Both can be had in gloss, semi-gloss, and matt finishes and provide a non-porous coating. Can you microwave air-dry clay?

The real art of this particular product is in the placing of the stones into the clay. I’ve seen pieces where anything goes regarding pattern and these can be very eye-catching but I’m not very confidant in my abilities to pull that off so placed the stones in a regular and symmetrical pattern. I became more adventurous with my second attempt and chose a heart shaped pendant which I filled to overflowing with gold clay for a nice big fat chunky pendant and placed the stones to make a flower with a decorative trim at the three corners of the heart.Next, examine your project closely. Any rough areas or blemishes on the surface should be carefully sanded smooth. Many sealants will highlight any imperfections you leave behind. Also, be sure to remove any dust you create while sanding. Liquid epoxy resin is the best sealant if you’re looking for a high level of protection. It will provide the strongest water-resistance and keep your pottery safe from outdoor weather damage. Apply your varnish according to the label directions. Make sure that as you paint or spray the varnish onto your pottery, you’re reaching all the crevices, divots, and corners that may exist in your piece. The most expensive coatings to use on air-dry clay are epoxy resin. In fact, depending on the brand they can be quite a bit higher. The thing is, you get what you pay for.

Next in line in terms of price would be polyurethane and acrylics. Poly is slightly more expensive but not by much and provides a much more resilient finish. Both can be had as liquids or in sprays, and come in a wide variety of finishes. Two brands of epoxy resin, Little Windows Brilliant Resin and another one called Art Resin both advertise that they’re non-toxic. They’re not made from something particularly unique. They’re both made of the same general ingredients as the other brands of epoxy resin. Remember, resin is NOT toxic. They’re not lying. But it’s a bit of marketing sleight of hand to avoid mentioning this hypersensitivity issue.

Doodlecraft

Renaissance Wax does a lovely job enriching a smooth polymer clay surface. Just apply a thin coating, let dry for a few minutes, then buff with a cloth. This will work sort of like wetting a beach pebble and can enrich a dark clay surface. Wax can also change the appearance of surface treatments, such as paint, chalk, and mica powders. I like to think of waxes as being a surface treatment themselves and not a protectant. You only need to seal and protect what you put ON the surface of your polymer clay project. When you apply mica powders, chalks, glitter, or metal leaf to the surface of your polymer clay project, it will need to be protected if the item is subject to wear. Note thatlight dustings of chalk or mica, such as rosy cheeks on a sculpture, do not need to be sealed. The same holds true for dots of paint and antiquing in the recessed areas of a design.

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